Rolex Explorer 5504 Gilt Chapter-Ring Tropical Underline Dial

This reference 5504 was introduced in 1958, bridging the gap between a dress watch and a sports watch. It served as a more budget-friendly alternative to the pricier Explorer 6610, as the 6610 was chronometer-certified, whereas the 5504 used the new calibre 1530 movement—more compact yet still highly accurate. Because the movement was not chronometer-certified, the dial is marked “Super Precision” instead of “Chronometer.”

The 5504 shared its 36 mm case and dial layout with the Air-King reference 5500, with the key differences being the larger case size (36 mm vs. 34 mm) and the Explorer-style dial.

At hand we have a particularly attractive example of the 5504.

Just look at that milk-chocolate-toned tropical dial!

It features a super-glossy gilt dial with a chapter ring, the iconic 3-6-9 Explorer layout, silver-printed “Super Precision,” a “Swiss Only” marking at 6 o’clock, and a silver-printed underline right beneath the “Explorer” text. The underline—a small horizontal stroke—was used by Rolex as a transitional marker between roughly 1962 and 1964.

This underline indicated an internal shift to the newer, lower-radiation tritium lume, distinguishing these dials from the earlier, highly radioactive radium versions. Produced for only a short period, underline dials are rare and highly sought after by collectors.

This chocolate-gloss beauty is paired with a Rolex riveted Oyster bracelet, reference 7206, with 58 end links and a clasp stamped 1/64. The watch has been fully serviced by our watchmaker and is ready for many years of wear.

We believe this reference is something of an underdog—or simply under appreciated. A 36 mm Explorer-style watch with a gilt dial, tropical ageing, and an underline? Come on, guys—let’s get this wrapped around your wrist!

Specifications:

• Rolex Explorer Reference 5504 Super precision

• 36mm steel case with smooth bezel

• Serial 949xxx dating to 1963

• Tropical ,brown gilt chapter ring dial “Swiss only “with underline

• Riveted Oyster bracelet ref 7206 with end links 58

• Fully serviced by our watchmaker

• One-year mechanical warranty

• Free worldwide FedEx Priority shipping