Audemars Piguet was founded in 1875 by two childhood friends, Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet. Contrary to popular belief, “Audemars Piguet” is not the first and last name of a single person, but a combination of the founders’ surnames.
Although the two friends followed separate paths in their early years, they reunited in their twenties to establish what would become one of the world’s most prestigious watch manufactures. The company was formally incorporated as Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881.
The manufacture was established in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, a region regarded as the cradle of fine watchmaking and home to some of the industry’s greatest technical innovations.
Fast forward to 1972, and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak changed the course of modern watchmaking. Designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, it was the world’s first luxury sports watch crafted in stainless steel, combining haute horlogerie finishing with an integrated bracelet and a bold octagonal bezel secured by eight exposed hexagonal screws.
The Royal Oak was launched at the height of the Quartz Crisis, when inexpensive electronic watches threatened the traditional Swiss watch industry. Its unconventional design and premium price initially divided opinion, but it ultimately proved revolutionary, establishing an entirely new category of luxury sports watches. Today, the Royal Oak stands as one of the most influential and recognisable timepieces ever created and remains the flagship model of Audemars Piguet.
Offered here is one of the most important Royal Oaks ever produced: the ref. 5402ST, the very first “Jumbo”.
Fun fact: the nickname “Jumbo” originates from Jumbo, the famous African bush elephant who became the world’s first animal celebrity in the late nineteenth century. Measuring over 13 feet (4 metres) tall and weighing around six tons, his extraordinary size made “jumbo” synonymous with anything exceptionally large — a term that later found its way into expressions such as “jumbo jet”. Ironically, the original Royal Oak measured just 39 mm, yet in 1972 it was considered exceptionally large for a luxury sports watch, earning it the nickname “Jumbo” among collectors.
The iconic 39 mm stainless steel case remains in excellent condition, retaining its sharp lines and beautifully finished surfaces. The signature octagonal bezel is equally well preserved, while the integrated bracelet remains in lovely condition and currently fits wrists up to 18.5 cm.
The earliest Royal Oak “Jumbo” models — the A-series, B-series and early C-series — feature the coveted applied AP logo positioned in the lower half of the dial. Later examples moved the logo to the 12 o’clock position. We are delighted to find this desirable “logo-down” configuration on our watch, confirming its status as an early C-series example.
The applied logo sits proudly on the iconic Petite Tapisserie dial, which has developed a wonderfully sympathetic fade over the decades, revealing an attractive tropical hue. The applied hour markers and signature baton hands have acquired a warm beige lume patina, perfectly complementing the character of the dial.
As documented by Audemars Piguet:
“On December 1, 1976, the first C-series Royal Oak emerged from the workshop, followed by 952 others, numbered from C1000 to C2000 and sold until 1987.”
Powering this Royal Oak is the legendary ultra-thin automatic calibre 2121, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s calibre 920 and regarded as one of the finest automatic movements ever produced. It has been fully serviced by our watchmaker and is ready to be enjoyed for many years to come.
A watch that forever changed the course of modern watchmaking. With its desirable “logo-down” configuration, beautifully faded Petite Tapisserie dial and legendary calibre 2121, this early Royal Oak 5402ST represents one of the purest expressions of Gérald Genta’s original vision.
We’d be delighted to hear from you!
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Specifications:
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Audemars Piguet Royal-Oak Reference 5402ST “Jumbo”
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Steel 39mm case, hexagonal bezel, integrated bracelet
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Case no. C12xx, dating to circa 1980
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“Nuage” Petite Tapisserie dial with correct applied “logo down ” faded to a tropical-hue
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Steel integrated bracelet, fitting wrists up to 18.5 cm currently
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Calibre automatic 2121 movement
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Fully serviced by our watchmaker
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One-year mechanical warranty
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Free worldwide FedEx Priority shipping
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